Day 2 - Himachals in Winter - The Kalka Shimla Toy Train Experience

Previous - Day 1

Next day morning, our train was scheduled for a departure at 5.30 am. So in that bone-chilling cold, we had to get up early and get ready – no wonder I was cursing myself for coming up with this plan.

Handing over the room keys to the reception and clearing the bill, when we placed ourselves on the narrow gauge platform, the coach was awaiting. The compartment was neat and clean and from the reservation chart we came to know that the coach was full! And we thought Jan-Feb used to be the ‘Off Season’!

The Shivalik Deluxe actually waits for the Howrah – Kalka Mail to arrive at Kalka. On that day it was delayed till 6.30 and so we had more than enough time to make ourselves comfortable. I infact dozed off a little if I go by with my wife’s version of the story, which I certainly can not remember doing.

Once the Kalka Mail arrived, within 15 mins the coach was full and we were all set to go. When we started around 6.55 am, the dawn was yet to break.

Immediately after leaving the small town, the train started ascending. The SunGod was still yawing on His bed. The hillocks started to turn into golden peaks under the tender sunlight. We were supplied with a copy of a newspaper but who cares about the damn world when you have such heavenly scenes dashing past you? We opened our windows and started clicking as many snaps as possible without caring for the cold a bit.

The train jogged along the mountains upward – through the thick woods, through the shadows and through the lights. Some cute little villages and stations were passed by. The Shivalik Deluxe only has one scheduled stop at Barog. Long before the station comes you have to place your order for the breakfast to the pantry, the cost of which is included in the ticket fare already.

The scenery and the experience both were out of this world. The tallest of the trees provided shadow for the villagers whereas the train ran along the circuitous tracks zigzagging its way through the hills whistling and cooing to make everyone aware of its existence.

The train came to a halt at Barog and we also descended. While the food crates were being boarded we enjoyed a heavenly beverage – a literally red hot tomato soup.

The Barog station in my opinion was the cutest of the series. Nestled in the lap of the mountains and far from the din and bustle of the urban civilization, the place offers tremendous views of the hills but still the place is much underrated.

After 15 mins or so the engine started to move so we entrained quickly. Bidding a sweet farewell to Barog, we headed towards its much bigger and more popular sibling, Shimla. We were served with the breakfast and tea/coffee to stuff ourselves which we devoured in no time.

While writing about the Kalka-Shimla, if I don’t mention the tunnels, it will be an injustice. As far as I can remember we counted around 130 tunnels of various lengths – from the smallest one to one really really large one. When the train passed through the tunnel, it seemed the time stood still and each second as an eternity.

We encountered our first snow when we were very close to Shimla. All the passengers were really excited, so were we.

We reached Shimla station around 11.30 am. It was shivering cold with a freezing wind blowing with its all its ferocity. We proceeded towards the Taxi Stand to head towards our destination - Narkanda - with a joyous heart as the narrow gauge train really lived upto its 'world heritage' status.

Pictures -

A view from the toy train

The Dawn - just breaking

Entering a tunnel

Another view from the train of the valley

Kumarhatti - A cute little station on the way

The train - at Barog Station

Crossings - At Barog Station

The Roadesians

Another quick snap

Salogra - Another cutie on the way



First snow on the way



Approaching the Shimla Station - the rail Motor Car is resting

Shimla Railway Station

Next - Day 2 Continued

Aurangabad Part VI - Ajanta - The Caves

Cave 1

This is one of the important caves which contains a lot of paintings. There is a large hall and pillars around both sides. Many important and famous paintings and sculptures are here as below – the great Buddha Image, Goddess, Cherubic Dwarf, bodhisattva, four deers with a common head, the lovers, dark princess, dancing girl, princess reclining by a pillar, a maid in a sad mood, Persian embassy, the golden geese, pink elephant, bull fight etc. The most famous painting here is ‘Boddhisattva Padmapani (Lotus in hand) and Vajrapani’ which are considered to be one of finest paintings in the world of art.

Cave 2

This is next to Cave 2 and another important cave. This is quite similar to cave in architecture and also contains many fabulous paintings on the walls and the ceilings. The skill with which painters lay down on scaffoldings for long years, to paint these pictures, is reminiscent of the way Michelangelo suffered physical strain while painting the ceilings of the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican in Rome. The famous paintings here are – Thousand Buddhas, Votaries with Offerings, Women on Swing.

Cave 3

This is an incomplete vihara (monastery) and there is nothing of much significance.

Cave 4

This is also a vihara which consists of a hall and pillared verandah. This is the largest monastery of the Ajanta excavations. The cave was also painted which is visible from the remnants.

Cave 5

This is an unfinished Vihara.

Cave 6

This was the first important cave of the Mahayana phase. This is a double storeyed monastery. It also has some fabulous paintings such as – Bhikshu with Lotus, Miracle of Sravasti, Temptation of Mara the Evil One.

Cave 7

This is another monastery which contains sculptural marvels like – preaching Buddha, Miracle of Sravasti, seated Buddha under the protection of Nagamuchalinda, etc

Cave 8

This is an unfinished monastery located at the lowest level and perhaps earliest among the monasteries. Major portion of the frontage has been swept away by a landslide.
Cave 9

This is a Chaitya (prayer hall). There are two early paintings, which survive. Frieze of Animals and Herdsmen Naga Worshippers. The chaityagriha exhibits reproduction of wooden architectural styles

Cave 10

This is another Chaitya Hall. This also houses some famous paintings – King with His Retinue, Shad-danta Jataka, Shyama Jataka, Elephants in Jungle, Pricess and Tusk, Buddha and the One-eyed Monk, etc.

Cave 11

This is another monastery which has an unfinished stupa. Few paintings that available here depicts Bodhisattvas, figures of Buddha, etc. This cave is also interesting as it shows the transition from Hinayana to Mahayana.

Cave 12

This is a monastery and front wall of which is completely collapsed.

Cave 13

This is a small monastery.

Cave 14

This unfinished monastery was excavated above Cave 13 at a higher level.

Cave 15

This is a monastery with eight cells, antechamber and pillared verandah. The sculptural depictions include Buddha in various postures, seated Buddha etc. The traces of paintings indicate that it was originally painted.

Cave 16

One of the finest paintings of the art world is housed here – the Dying Princess. The other notable paintings here are Buddha with a Begging Bowl, Prince Siddharth stretching the bow, the Sutasama Jataka etc. There is a giant statue of Buddha in a teching gesture.

Cave 17

This monastery is another example of the finest paintings – Apsaras and the flying spirits, Indra and the Apsaras, Royal Procession, Shad-danta Jataka, Prince Simhala, The Buddha Returns.

Cave 18

This consists of a rectangular excavation leading into another cell. This houses one of the exquisite paintings – Princess looking in the mirror.

Cave 19

This is a Chaitya hall. The stupa is carved with a standing image of Buddha.

Cave 20

This is a pillarless monastery. Buddha in preaching attitude is housed in the sanctum. The sculpture of seven Buddhas accompanied by attendants is another important sculptural panel in this cave.

Cave 21

One of the most fabulous of Ajanta, from the perspective of the carvings. This is basically a chaitya hall which houses a 24 ft long statue of dead Buddha on the left wall – This is called as ‘Buddha in Parinirvana’. There are carvings of disciples of Buddha moaning and heavenly deities welcoming Buddha in heaven. The peacefulness which was carved on Buddha’s face is truly astonishing. As per my opinion, this is the best of Ajanta’s sculptures, at least if expressions are concerned.

Cave 22

The sculptural depiction of Buddha in different forms, painted figures of Manushi-Buddhas with Maitreya can be noticed here. This is basically a monastery.

Cave 23

This is an unfinished monastery.

Cave 24

This is another incomplete monastery.

Cave 25

This is a monastery but the hall is devoid of any shrine.

Cave 26

This is similar chaityagriha like cave 19, but much bigger than 19. The horseshoe arch is quite breathtaking. There are various sculptures, undoubtedly carved with rare talent and skill.

Cave 27

The monastery consists of a hall with four cells, antechamber and sanctum sanctorum. Buddha in teaching attitude is housed inside the sanctum.

Cave 28

This is an unfinished monastery.

Cave 29

This is an unfinished chaitya griha.

Under the scorching heat, we were quite exhausted by now. We did take a lot of rest in between traversing through the hills. We required a lot of water intake without which it is impossible to walk. We now started towards the exit. We crossed a small bridge on the river Waghora. The path through jungle was quite pleasant with cool shadows provided by the trees. A lot of fully bloomed flowers were there to enjoy, if one can after the industrious walk. We came to outer entrance and went into the MTDC restaurant just to find out that the place is fully occupied. We were quite hungry but other than this place, there were not eateries around. Upset, we came back to queue for the bus. Buying the tickets, we came to the base and hurried to the first eatery we found and had a sumptuous meal. It was already 5 pm, but we could see hoards of people still proceeding towards the top. I came to know from a local that these are the people who would stay at the MTDC resort and would start their journey in the early morning. It seemed a great idea to me. If there is a next time, I will definitely do this.

We came back to the hotel around 7.45 pm, had a bath and then an early dinner and went to bed straightaway after the hectic but deserved effort.

Ajanta made us both exuberant and poignant. We – and thousands others, Indians, Japanese, Koreans, English, Americans, French – all were spellbound, hypnotized and mesmerized. The paintings had so much expression and emotions, the sculptures were so much precise to the minutest of detail that we were completely swept away by their splendid grandeur.

We have now with us an experience of a lifetime.

Paintings -

Carvings -

Sources:
For this post, I acknowledge -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ajanta_Caves
http://www.aurangabaad.com/
http://ajantacaves.com/
http://asi.nic.in/