Showing posts with label Shimla. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shimla. Show all posts

Thursday, 9 February 2012

Day 6 - Himachals in Winter - Shimla to Manali – The Hills, the Forest and the Beas


Next day was a long day for us since we had to travel to Manali. Being an off-season, we got a great deal from our Hotel (Honeymoon Inn) itself. They arranged a car (Indica) for us spontaneously – which included Shimla to Manali journey, Manali sightseeing for the next couple of days and Manali to Chandigarh drop – only in 4000/ whereas the HPTDC guys assured me that only the Shimla to Manali to journey in a small car like India would cost us around 2500/. So undoubtedly we were eloquently enchanted with the bargain.

The journey started around 7 am in the morning immediately after the breakfast. Shimla did not fully wake up from its overnight hangover till then. We drove through the sleepy town with ease with little traffic to hinder our way.

After some time, Shimla gradually faded into a distance and the beauty of the nature opened up in front of us. The roads penetrated the dense forest at both sides as if a gigantic reptile moving forward. A tender sunlight was kissing the earth, indicating a new day had begun. The earth responded with a small gentle breeze. The trees were swaying as if they were trying to embrace the us.

We stopped at a petrol pump to stock enough fuel for the journey. After that the long journey started. At some point the road was really really bad as some construction was ongoing. But we took no notice of the bumpy road when Beas started accompanying us.

Manali always scores a point more than Shimla, mainly because of the presence of the river Beas. Green and clean water all the way to Manali was an ever-refreshing scenery. The journey from can be remembered for the Hills, for the snowy peaks but mostly for the Beas.

We halted at a place before Kullu to have lunch. The cute roadside dhaba enjoyed a lovely picturesque scene overlooking the river. The water reflected the sparkling sunlight and the road seemed to go beyond the eternity through the hills – the feeling was amazing.

We passed Kullu, we didn’t really like the town since it seemed to be unnecessarily overcrowded, even more than Shimla. It was already 1.30 pm so we were also feeling a bit tired. Once we passed the Kullu town, the road started to wind up once again and now the raw beauty made us spellbound once more. The snow capped hills could be seen at a distance; we enquired a passing car to get to know that Manali had encountered a heavy snowfall only a couple of days back and there would another round of the snowfall within the next two days, as the weather guys predicted. We were truly exuberant and found a new energy.

The last stretch of the read was as smooth as it could be. Once we reached the town we immediately adored it. The Beas river flowing with its gentleness (but in Monsoon it becomes really fearsome as we have heard) surrounding the city, patches of snow everywhere, thick long Pine, Juniper, Spruce and Rhododendron trees everywhere and the unhindered view of the white peaks – Shimla could never be this city.

The Mall at Manali though, was crowded with men, women, kids and shops but we did not bother as our reservation was at the HPTDC Log Huts, which were 2 Kms above the Mall and at the outskirts of the commercialization, yet.

When we parked ourselves in front of the gate of the Log Huts it was already 4 Pm. The ambience was so nice that we fell short of words to describe it. There were snow everywhere, on the ground, on the trees and on the roofs of the cottages. The complex actually housed the Hamta Huts (Single BR) and the Log Huts (Double BR) with every cottage was surrounded by trees and a lawn covered with patches of snow.

We were shown our wooden cottage and it was an instant love affair. The cottage was further ahead with a bit more climb, but the lawn in front of it and the backyard compensated for our tiring effort. From the lawn the peaks were visible, whereas the backyard was covered fully under a knee-deep snow.

It was almost dark by the time we checked in, and there was nothing more to do in the evening – this was one aspect of staying far from the heart of the town, but we were way too excited for our next day trip towards Solang Valley to be bothered about the petty details.

The night fell quickly and the place became so isolated that it felt like we were staying in a dense forest. There was no earthly sound that could be heard, no one to help us even if we screamed. On top of that, a wind became heavier enough to make a pounding sound on the rooftop. But that was the beauty of it.

We spent the rest of the evening watching some television and preparing for the next day. When we went to bed at 10, we were so tired and enthusiastic at the same time that we never knew when we were fast asleep.


Pictures -

A hilltop temple on the way

Magnificent Beas


What if it never ends

Standing with pride

Beas from the road - an effort with editing


Finally we arrived

The first Log hut in the compound..see the snow at the lawn

Our cottage

Sunday, 5 February 2012

Day 5 – Himachals in Winter - Shimla – A Relaxing Day and the Naughty Monkeys

Previous Day 4 - Narkanda to Shimla

This was the inauspicious day of the tour, since I woke up with a mild fever and severe headache. There was, therefore, nothing much to do other than consulting the doc first. The doc advised to take a day’s rest completely and have really light food.
So most of my day was spent in the Hotel room, lying and watching TV or listening to music. In the afternoon, I got completely fed up with this enforced relaxation and got out from the hotel towards the mall, with baby steps.
The mall this time offered fewer crowds than the previous day which was a nice thing to see.  The same church looked brighter and the mall more beautiful and peaceful.



Only one incident to write about was the encounter with the monkeys. The monkeys of Shimla are as (in)famous as the hill town itself because of their boldness. They snatch any food item and don’t bother to say ‘thank you’ even if you are willing enough to feed them.
On returning our way back to the hotel, my wife held a small bag containing some memento items – and not a single food item, suddenly a couple of giant monkeys jumped in front of us and tried to snatch that bag away from her. She was really bold enough to hold on to the bag and never gave in and the monkeys were also proving to be very determined. They two were making many faces to scare her away perhaps and were communicating between themselves about the strategy, while I was, really selfishly, standing and watching the fun, and that too with a smile!! The bag was a paper bag and it was not really made up to withstand such a tug-of-war so it gave in and was torn apart. My wife, now, instead of cursing the monkeys, started cursing me. So I had to do something, at least out of chivalry. I picked up a small pebble and made a gesture to throw it to the two bravest of monkeys.  They retreated for a couple of steps but didn’t leave the bag. Mighty courageous, I must say!! Fortunately two local guys came to our rescue. They were much better acquainted with the monkeys, than us obviously. They found out a stick and tried to whoosh them away.  This time the two villains gave up  - may be they have already found out what the bag contained – and they climbed on the tree from where they started their adventure.
Phew!! We almost ran to our hotel. I got to receive a few words from her – which were justified – since she was the one battling it out whereas I was a mere spectator watching the fun, which should have been the other way round, if it were a romantic movie.
But anyway, this incident was certainly not less interesting than any travel.
The day after, we would be driving to Manali.

Saturday, 4 February 2012

Day 4 - Himachals in Winter - Narkanda to Shimla - Return to the Capital


The next day we woke up and looked through the window the first thing. The weather was cleared and a perfect sunny day was waiting for us outside. We quickly got freshened up, had the breakfast and boarded the car which was waiting (we arranged this via the hotel manager the previous day) at around 9 am.

Bidding adieu to Narkanda was not easy by any means as we embraced its beauty with all our emotions more than it embraced us. With a really really heavy heart we left Narakanda which faded gradually into the background.

I will not bore you with my monotonous cacophony of the road description since it was the same road through which we came on Day 2. But the route was more scenic this time due to the snowfall. But the ice was melting so quickly that it made the roads even more horrible which I did not believe to be possible anyway.

At one point (I could not recall the name of the place) we saw loads of cute Yaks and Ponies – unfortunately the Yaks did not pose for us but we managed to get a snap of the ponies. Marvelous creatures they were, I must say.

After the same bumpy and painful ride we reached Shimla at 1 pm. The patches of ice which we saw on Day 2 had disappeared completely – apparently Shimla didn’t receive any snowfall. We didn’t plan anything apart from roaming around the mall that day. Even if we did, we could not perhaps do it after that journey like a Jumping Jack in the back of a car.

We booked ourselves aptly in the Honeymoon Inn for 2N 3D package. The hotel was situated at the Mall Road, where no car was allowed to enter, to keep Shimla clean and green. Once we left the car, I asked a local fellow about the location of the hotel. He just smiled at us and had a sad glance at the luggages. I became curious obviously. But he left. I gave a call to the hotel and they advised us to wait where we were as they were sending a porter.

The hotel turned out to be located above the mall road in reality. You have to climb (and by climb I mean a really arduous climb) for 15 mins to reach the base of the hotel. Now we certainly realized the meaning of the impish grin of the local fella as we both were gasping, without carrying the heavy ones!!!

We checked in and a sweet surprise was awaiting us. We were upgraded to a costlier suite since it was an off season. Not bad!

We quickly settled into the room and then after having the lunch (which was awesome), we proceeded towards the mall. It was a good 20 mins walk from the hotel. We passed by the cluster of shops at our sides – it felt like we came to a market instead of a hill station. It was so crowded that we wanted to get out of Shimla as soon as possible. Such was the effect of that isolated place called Narkanda.

We reached the mall and were surprised to see that the mall nowadays had become an entertainment arena. Horse riding, balloon shooting, shopping – the place was full of fun activities. I could not match that peaceful quiet mall which I liked when I was there during my childhood days with this overcrowded modernized place.

Anyway, everything has its own pros and cons. Shimla’s positive was that it kept itself up to date with the world. And since it was the capital of the state, the din and bustle were granted. But it did not loose its charm in the context of its natural beauty. The same old tall trees provided the shadow, the same wind used to breeze, the same valleys were overlooked by the mall.

We roamed around till 6.30 pm and then it was my time to be the walking ATM. I won’t surely bore you with the way I fulfilled my role of a mute cash dispenser. The weather became cold and so did my wallet.

After a couple of hours of haggling, negotiating and bargaining we headed towards the hotel. Again through the steep climb, this time with shopping bags in my hands, we reached the hotel. I threw away (read ‘kept’) the shopping bags on the sofa and went to dinner.

The meal at the hotel was so delicious that one was bound to be overstuffed. After having the sumptuous meal, we returned to the rooms. Feeling awfully tired after the journey and the climb (and the shopping as well) we sunk into a deep slumber.


Pictures -

On our way back - Narknada to Shimla

View of the hills from the car

Cute Poines

Yaks - cute but camera shy

Way towards the Shimla Mall

The most sought after place in Shimla, the endless main market

All amenities are present

The Mall - overcrowded even in Off Season

A view from the Mall

Church the name of which I have forgot - The Mall, Shimla

Day 3 - Himachals in Winter - Narkanda - Snowed Under


We woke up the in the next morning with a surprise. By chance, I just glanced outside the window and found the lawn and all the surrounding areas covered with snow – last night experienced a severe snowfall at Narkanda.

The scenery was breath-taking and jaw-dropping whereas the cold was bone-chilling. As far as we could see the hills became white, the trees became white the roads and the valley too were under the white carpet. The ice was glittering under the shining sun.

We quickly got ready, had our breakfast in the room with crispy Aloo Paranthas and Pickle served with a fuming hot cup of coffee. We set out to venture into our planned expeditions today. Our plan was to trek to Hatu peak in the morning, then come back to the hotel, have lunch and sightsee to Tanni Jubbar Lake.

We went down to the market to look for a mode of transport for the sightseeing to the lake later in the day but here we had our first series of setbacks.

Route to Hatu Peak – Not accessible due to extreme snowfall last night!
Route to Tanni Jubbar Lake – blocked, will take a day to re-open!
Route to Kotgarh, Thanedar apple orchards – blocked and will take a day to re-open!
Route to Shimla – blocked, will take half a day to re-open!

So Narkanda had lost contact with the outside world and become isolated for the time being. What to do? We had to drop off all the trekking and sightseeing plans unfortunately. Instead we planned to stroll across the Narkanda village at a leisurely pace.

So we started our small adventure walking down the route towards Hatu Peak to check if we can really walk upto the top. The cliffs and gorges at the side of the roads were covered in really deep snow. The woods were so dense that sky was not easily visible and naturally the ice could not melt. It was a dark but serene, really serene atmosphere. Birds cooing, snow falling on the ground from the trees, a gentle whispering sound of the breeze and the sound of our footsteps – the sound of silence was at its best.

A villager passed us by and warned us not to stroll across down these roads since there were a couple leopards running loose in the forest since a few days!! Fantastic, what more could anyone ask for?

The snow was also becoming thicker by every step we took forward and it was difficult to move further ahead – we were not pro and avid trekkers! I don’t think there are many people who would like to trek in that ambience in their honeymoon anyway so you can't really blame us for escaping from that opportunity.

It was already lunchtime so we returned to the main market crossing. We devoured a pot noodles from a roadside shop – which was truly mouth-watering, I can still remember the taste.

We went back to our hotel and took some rest. In the afternoon we came to the lawn to spend some more time with the nature. The ice was fading away but the prettiness of the place wasn’t. The backyard of the hotel was covered thickly – literally more than a feet deep – in snow. The roof of the PWD bungalow at the valley below was also covered in snow. Everywhere on the trees and the peaks – wherever we could see, the white ice made us spellbound. We understood what the word 'snow-white' means, literally!

I chatted with the hotel manager and he mentioned that normally they get real bored with such snowfall every year as there would be nothing to do. But for us it was so refreshing as well as different experience that we felt like we could spend our whole lives in the heart of Narkanda.

Next day we had a plan to move back to Shimla so we started praying that roads would open the next day.

Will our wishes be fulfilled??? Check the next post if you are interested

Pictures -

View from the room

View from the Lawn

PWD Bungalow from the Hatu room

Trees

Backyard of Hatu

Path from Hatu to main market

Valley down

Snow has fallen

Snow covered path to Hatu

Snow has fallen - 2

Snow has fallen - 3

The Biker has left his Bike

Day 2 - Himachals In Winter - Shimla to Narkanda


We took a cab just outside the Shimla Railway station towards Narkanda. Not many people were heading towards the same direction which really was a relief. The cab driver assured us of loads and loads of snow on the way and at our ‘Final Destination’.

On our way, we could see traces of snowfall in Shimla itself as in 2011 the city encountered one of the biggest snowfalls in many years. The snow changed its whiteness to darkness to become ‘black ice’ making the roads difficult to drive on.

The road towards Kufri and Fagu were pretty bad as there were a lot of constructions going on. But the sheer beauty of the nature would surely take one’s breath away. Our cameras were clicking incessantly to capture the nature but no camera in the world may be able to capture the same beauty which can be enjoyed through the eyes. Tall Pine and Apple trees at both sides of the road creating a hide and seek atmosphere with the Sun was certainly a sight to remember through the whole life.

All of Kufri and Fagu were covered in snow – but again, the roads became too muddy and slippery due to the ice melting continuously. The tree-leaves were covered in snow and the tiny water droplets falling on the ground with a gentle sound – you can hear it only if you want to – heavenly, in a nutshell.

Once we passed Fagu, the road turned out to be much better one and we could relax, but not for long. There were innumerable numbers of bad patches throughout the whole journey as the roads eroded as a result of the reaction with ice.

After the bumpy ascending ride of 3 hours including many stopovers for photography, we finally reached Narkanda. It was a small cute village with only a few shops and houses of the local villagers. For the same reason, serenity and calmness were assured. This quaint little village was nestled at the lap of the mountains, with a non-hastened lifestyle. The narrow roads penetrating through the woods, the paths bearing the marks of heavy snowfall were enough to make anyone long for coming back again and again.

We booked ourselves at HPTDC’s Hotel Hatu so we started looking for the same. There was a narrow slanting path through which you have to drive on 1st gear to reach the hotel at the top. The path was fully covered in snow – the ice didn’t melt because sunrays could not reach the ground due to the presence of the trees. Immediately after we tried to drive through this road, we sensed danger as the car could not move forward as the road was too slippery and it started going in the reverse direction towards the edge of the road. We both had to get down and push the car from back!!! Gosh, and it was our honeymoon!!

Anyway, the car finally started moving upward and we started walking down the narrow path. After a walk of 15 mins through the thick woods and heaps of snow, we came to the top which was a smooth valley overlooking the cliffs at all sides. The Hotel stood in the middle with loads and loads of snow at the backyard. The lawn as it faced the sun directly didn’t have much snow left, but the patches were sufficient to convey what it could look like under the snow. The view from the lawn was magnificent – the snow-capped hills stood with all their prides as if touching the blue azure above. The trees were swaying with the gentle breeze and the dry ice was falling on the ground from the leaves. I wish I could really play with the words to describe the feelings we had. But back to the reality now – that gentle breeze was carrying such coldness which could make anyone freeze.

We quickly checked into the Hotel and were shown to our room. The room was cozy and at the top floor just over the lawn – so the whole view from the lawn was accessible easily from the room which was really encouraging. From one of the windows the PWD rest house was visible. There were not many options to stay in Narkanda apart from these two arrangements.

We got settled and after freshening up, we went for a quick stroll to explore the place. We went to the market below through the narrow path, had much needed hot tea and walked through the narrow roads inhaling the purest of oxygen. It was so cold outside because of that wind, we had to quickly retire to our rooms.

In the night, when roaming around outside was not possible, we sat on the chairs beside the window and enjoyed the view of the electric-lit hills at a distance.

We never knew what was in store for us on the next day, but that will be a separate post.


Pictures -

In between Kufri and Fagu

On the way to Narkanda

Approaching Narkanda - so scenic a route

From the car once again

A quick shot from the car

The valley

Crossing at Narkanda

Way to PWD Bungalow

This path lead to Hatu Peak

Hotel Hatu
 
The Valley Down

Through the woods

Way to Hotel Hatu


The Lawn of Hatu

Next - Day 3 In and Around Narkanda

Day 2 - Himachals in Winter - The Kalka Shimla Toy Train Experience


Next day morning, our train was scheduled for a departure at 5.30 am. So in that bone-chilling cold, we had to get up early and get ready – no wonder I was cursing myself for coming up with this plan.

Handing over the room keys to the reception and clearing the bill, when we placed ourselves on the narrow gauge platform, the coach was awaiting. The compartment was neat and clean and from the reservation chart we came to know that the coach was full! And we thought Jan-Feb used to be the ‘Off Season’!

The Shivalik Deluxe actually waits for the Howrah – Kalka Mail to arrive at Kalka. On that day it was delayed till 6.30 and so we had more than enough time to make ourselves comfortable. I infact dozed off a little if I go by with my wife’s version of the story, which I certainly can not remember doing.

Once the Kalka Mail arrived, within 15 mins the coach was full and we were all set to go. When we started around 6.55 am, the dawn was yet to break.

Immediately after leaving the small town, the train started ascending. The SunGod was still yawing on His bed. The hillocks started to turn into golden peaks under the tender sunlight. We were supplied with a copy of a newspaper but who cares about the damn world when you have such heavenly scenes dashing past you? We opened our windows and started clicking as many snaps as possible without caring for the cold a bit.

The train jogged along the mountains upward – through the thick woods, through the shadows and through the lights. Some cute little villages and stations were passed by. The Shivalik Deluxe only has one scheduled stop at Barog. Long before the station comes you have to place your order for the breakfast to the pantry, the cost of which is included in the ticket fare already.

The scenery and the experience both were out of this world. The tallest of the trees provided shadow for the villagers whereas the train ran along the circuitous tracks zigzagging its way through the hills whistling and cooing to make everyone aware of its existence.

The train came to a halt at Barog and we also descended. While the food crates were being boarded we enjoyed a heavenly beverage – a literally red hot tomato soup.

The Barog station in my opinion was the cutest of the series. Nestled in the lap of the mountains and far from the din and bustle of the urban civilization, the place offers tremendous views of the hills but still the place is much underrated.

After 15 mins or so the engine started to move so we entrained quickly. Bidding a sweet farewell to Barog, we headed towards its much bigger and more popular sibling, Shimla. We were served with the breakfast and tea/coffee to stuff ourselves which we devoured in no time.

While writing about the Kalka-Shimla, if I don’t mention the tunnels, it will be an injustice. As far as I can remember we counted around 130 tunnels of various lengths – from the smallest one to one really really large one. When the train passed through the tunnel, it seemed the time stood still and each second as an eternity.

We encountered our first snow when we were very close to Shimla. All the passengers were really excited, so were we.

We reached Shimla station around 11.30 am. It was shivering cold with a freezing wind blowing with its all its ferocity. We proceeded towards the Taxi Stand to head towards our destination - Narkanda - with a joyous heart as the narrow gauge train really lived upto its 'world heritage' status.

Pictures -


A view from the toy train

The Dawn - just breaking

Entering a tunnel

Another view from the train of the valley

Kumarhatti - A cute little station on the way

The train - at Barog Station

Crossings - At Barog Station

The Roadesians

Another quick snap

Salogra - Another cutie on the way


First snow on the way

Approaching the Shimla Station - the rail Motor Car is resting

Shimla Railway Station