Showing posts with label Bhaje. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bhaje. Show all posts

Monday, 20 August 2012

Trek to Lohagad - The Iron Fort - with Colleagues

The Iron Fort - as known to Lohagad - is one of the strongest forts in Maharastra and obviously is in much better condition withstanding the scorching heat of summer and relentless rain in the monsoon. The name Iron Fort henceforth bears enough significance of its strength and power.

Quoting from Wikipedia -

''Lohagad has a long history with several dynasties occupying it at different periods of time: Satavahanas, Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas, Yadavas, Bahamanis, Nizamshahis, Mughals and Marathas. Shivaji captured it in 1648 CE, but he was forced to surrender it to the Mughals in 1665 CE by the Treaty of Purandar. Shivaji recaptured the fort in 1670 CE and used it for keeping his treasury. This fort was used to keep the loot from Surat. Later in Peshwa time Nana Phadanwis used this fort for living for sometime. The fort has been declared as a protected moument by the government"

At office, we started planning for a trek with as many team members together as possible. We opted for Lohagad since it was supposed to be a trek for beginners like us. Many people promised, many showed interest, then a few weaklings backed out, a few showed 'arbitrary' reasons for dropping off like leaves from a tree in winter - but finally 6 of us stuck together to make this trip successful. So a special thanks goes to Damodar, Vishal, Aakanksha, Vaishali and Ashmant - in no particular order. And obviously, I am the sixth person to be thanked here.

We chalked out the mission plan in unison. The plan was simple - we'd catch a Lonavala bound local train in the morning and reach Malavli after an hour or so and then take an auto to the Bhaje village and start the trek, We'd come back following the reverser order of the plan. We also outlined who'd carry what for the trek and promised to meet at the Pune stattion at 7.30 am.

Ashmant picked me up at 7.15 in the morning on the D-day and we were at Pune station by 7.30 am, almost sharp. We boarded the local train scheduled o leave at 8 which it did on time. We reached Malavli at 9.30 am-ish. The first setback we faced is that there was no auto as per the plan, So we decided (read we had to) to walk towards the Bhaje village, which was around 2 km from the station. And rain was our constant companion but we didn't bother because that was the fun - walking in the rain. Everyone seemed to have high spirits.



We stopped at a small food joint to have our breakfast - Tea, Wadapav and wonderful homemade Dhoklas (courtesy Vishal's wife). The greenery already started making itself visible, like a teaser of a movie. So wasting not much time, we were at the base of the Bhaje village.




Bhaje village also houses the renowned Bhaje caves. At the very beginning, an amazing waterfall - though as usual thronged by over-enthusiastic people - was a bonus.





We started our trek, leaving the waterfalls behind and the stairs to Bhaje caves on our left. Many groups embarked on the same mission to conquer the Iron Fort as us. Some lagged behind, some moved ahead. After a stretch of a flat road for around quarter of an hour, the Bhaje caves faded at a distance and we came across a gushing cascade - again, mobbed.


We went ahead after a quick photo session. Looking back, I noticed the Bhaje caves had faded into the distance. The waterfall which we just left behind, was actually a part of a long silver line that penetrated its way through the hills, amidst the greenery.



We moved on and on - the condition of the road varied, ranging from steep to flat, but mostly an upward climb with loose pebbles and stones all around. On top of that, a few muddy stretches made it even more difficult to move on.

We were fatigued, so we took rest at one of the tea stalls on the way, not for long. A rugged hill in front of us was playing hide and seek with the fog. The entire land as we could see was under a green carpet, barring the earthen road that led to our destination.

We proceeded ahead, the rugged hill came closer and we were ecstatic assuming this was the final destination - but it wasn't. We still had not reached even at the base of the fort, so we followed the other explorers and the road - if one can call it a road.



Finally, after almost a couple of hours of arduous trek - arduous by our standards obviously - we reached at the base of the fort, surprisingly much ahead of our planned schedule. That itself was a cause for celebration and it lifted our morale without any doubt.

A steep series of stairs showed the way up. We ascended. The reminiscence of ancient ages started unfolding themselves, in the form of a few canons on the way.


Exhausted, we could see the fortifications finally.Covered under the mist, the solid rock walls looked impregnable. The mist was spreading fast engulfing the whole place with its white sheet. At one instance we could not even see the stais that we were climbing.



Dangerous slippery stairs, wind and merciless rain - we surpassed all obstacles and reached the top but the weather did not improved and everything remained covered under the fog. We could only notice a ruined a structure which seemed to be an ancient temple at the top.


The rain and the wind were so relentless that it was difficuly to withstand for long. As the visibility did not improve, we lost all hopes to enjoy the beauty of the valley below and the famous Scorpion's sting ('Vinchu Kata') and we started going downward.



Going downstairs we had our lunch - this time courtesy Damodar and Aakanksha - with cookies, cakes and banana. It would not sound lavish, but it saved our lives.

The weather was rapidly changing. The following snaps were clicked on very quick succession of the Ganesh Darwaja, but one can notice rapid change in the visibility.



The descent took much less time than we thought initially.



We came back via the same route leaving everything - Lohagad, the rugged hills, the greenery and waterfalls - behind.




We were desperate to get an auto this time from Bhaje village to Malavli, but alas, it was not meant to be. So walking was the only option whoch we badly wanted to avoid but without any result.

We managed to finally catch the 3.55 pm train from Malavli and reached Pune at 5.30 pm.

It was a day to remember with great interest for all of us - we really enjoyed the company of each other and the nature. Overall, we were so joyful to complete the trek despite our lack of tried-and-tested-stamina, that our enjoyment knew no bounds.

In a nutshell, we are now planning for a second trek together!!

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

Part 3 - Bedse, Karla and Bhaje Caves - A Trilogy (Bhaje Caves)

Continued from Part 2

Bhaje Caves

Bhaje Caves are a complex of 18 Buddhist rock cut caves clustered on a hill – 2 chaitya, 13 Viharas and some dining halls. These caves are even older than Karla. The oldest cave dates back to 2nd century BC.
From Karla we headed towards the Malavli crossing again and towards the Bhaje caves. During the journey we crossed the Malavli rail station.
After around half an hour, we reached a small village where a small diversion leads to the stairs of the Bhaje village, we were now quite accustomed to the stairs and were somewhat prepared for another daunting climb.
Further down the same diversion, one can go to the base of the famous Lohagad fort.
Again there were 350 stairs through which we started the climb. We were exhausted but full of expectations.
We took several breaks during the upward climb and were surrounded by enthralling beauty of the nature.
At the top, just before the main entrance, a small checkpost is present from where you have to buy a ticket of 5/-.
We entered through the gates and were completely speechless seeing the caves. This was the best of the three in our opinion.
The chaitya in cave number 12 is the biggest of all and undoubtedly the main attraction of the complex. The width of the hall is 8.17 meters while the length is 18 meters. 27 octagonal pillars in the chaitya are architecturally pretty simple though they are a work of sheer beauty. The height of the pillars is around 5.9 meters. There are Buddhist symbols carved beautifully on these pillars. Use of wood can be called one of the distinctive features of these caves. Some of the wooden parts, however, are now in ruins. Just like other other chaityas, there is big stupa inside the chiatya.

There are a cluster of 13-14 stupas carved in a single cave side by side. These stupas used to be constructed in the memory of the Buddhist Acharyas. You can see the names of these Acharyas carved out on these stupas.
There is a small waterfall besides the last cave, which gives the place an additional attraction. It is said that the monks used to take bath in this waterfall and also it was the source of their drinking water. To think of it, any one is bound to go back to the old days imagining how the ambience would have been at that time.
The surrounding does give you a peace of mind. One will just want to seat and relax here which we did.
Here are the snaps.




















































Coming down we could see another waterfall created by nature's wonder in rainy season, which have now become a place for the tourists to get wet.


In exquisiteness these Caves are no less than the more famous Ajanta and Ellora caves. We were really spellbound and we really thanked ourselves for selecting this place for a visit. But, sadly there are many questions which can be raised as to the quality of the maintenance. One can evidently see the lack of maintenance by the Archeological Survey of India. There is absolutely no preservation of these historical and cutural heritages.

We sat at the top for an hour or so and then climbed down and headed back to the Kamshet station.

And thus ended the trilogy of Karla, Bhaje and Bedse Caves.

Return to Pune

Fortunately, the track was repaired and the trains started running to and fro. We caught a local from Kamshet to Pune and were safely back :)

We had an awesome day of travelling and we were really glad that we managed to cover all three caves in a  single day.

Our complete itinerary:
Start from Pune Station: 6.30 am
Reach Vadgaon: 7.15 am
Reach Kamshet: 8.00 am
Reach Bedse Caves base: 8.35 am
Reach Bedse Caves Top: 9.30 am
Leave Bedse Caves: 10.30 am
Reach Karla: 11 am
Reach Karla top: 11.45 am
Reach Karla Base: 1.15 pm
Lunch: 30 mins
Leave Karla: 1.45 pm
Reach Bhaje Base: 2.05 pm
Reach Bhaje Top: 3.00 pm
Leave Bhaje: 4 pm
Train at Kamshet: 4.45 pm
Reach Pune: 6 pm

Some Important Information

How to get there: If you are coming from Mumbai, cross Lonavala and come to Malavli crossing, you can visit Karla at the left and then Bhaje at you right. After that go to Kamshet and take a right turn towards Bedse Caves. If you do not have a vehicle, come to Lonavala by bus/train and take any train/shared auto/bus to Malavli. If you are coming from Pune, you can visit as we did. There are ample public transports (auto) available so absolutely no need to worry if you don't have a car/bike.

Where to Eat: There is no shops/eateries around Bedse, but there are many shops and stalls at the foothills and on the way to Karla. Around Bhaje, there are some small tupris. But do not expect a royal lunch whatsover.

Where to Stay: Accommodations are plenty at Lonavala and also MTDC runs a resort at Karla.